Michael Willis: World Record Holder for the Biggest Waves ever Surfed
Early Life: Roots in the Water
Michael Willis was raised in Solana Beach, California and grew up in Hawaii alongside his identical twin brother, Milton. The Pacific Ocean was a constant presence in their childhood, shaping their earliest memories and ambitions.
The twins’ parents, both avid beachgoers, introduced them to the ocean’s rhythms before they could walk. By the age of eight, Michael was already paddling out on borrowed boards, mesmerized by the dance between surfer and wave.
The Willis twins’ formative years were marked by a blend of Southern California beach culture and the more spiritual, challenging waters of Hawaii, where they spent significant time as young men.
The move to Hawaii was pivotal: here, Michael encountered the legendary North Shore, a proving ground for the world’s best surfers. The raw power and beauty of places like Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach, and Pipeline became his classroom, and the ocean his lifelong mentor.
Surfboard Making: The Art and Science of Shaping
Michael’s relationship with surfing quickly deepened beyond riding waves. He became fascinated by the boards themselves-their curves, contours, and the subtle interplay between design and performance. By his late teens, Michael was shaping boards for himself, his brother, and a growing circle of friends. His workshop became a hub of innovation, filled with the scent of resin and the sound of planers.
Michael’s shaping philosophy was simple but revolutionary: a surfboard should be an extension of the surfer, tuned to the unique demands of each wave and rider.
He experimented relentlessly, blending traditional Hawaiian templates with cutting-edge materials and techniques. His boards were not only beautiful but functional, able to handle everything from the playful peelers a beach break to the monstrous waves of Devil’s Garden
By the 1980s, Michael’s reputation as a master shaper was spreading throughout the world. In a landmark moment for his career, Surfing Magazine named Michael Willis one of the five best shapers in the world.
This recognition was not just for his technical skill, but for his ability to listen-to both the ocean and the surfers who trusted him with their lives on the world’s biggest waves.
Michael’s boards became the weapon of choice for elite surfers and big wave pioneers. His signature shapes-sleek, strong, and responsive-were in demand from Hawaii to California , and from Australia to Japan.
The Willis label became synonymous with innovation, durability, and performance under pressure.
Surfing Prowess: Mastery from 1 to 115 Feet
While Michael’s shaping skills earned him global acclaim, it was his surfing that truly set him apart.
Few surfers in history have matched his ability to ride waves of every size with such grace and control. From the playful, glassy mornings in 1-2’ breakers to the thunderous, life-threatening peaks breaking well over 100 feet at outer Log Cabins and outer Sunset Beach, Michael’s style was unmistakable: fluid, powerful, and deeply intuitive.
Michael’s approach to surfing was holistic. He believed that every wave, no matter how small or large, deserved respect and attention. He could be found gliding on a knee-high roller with the same focus and joy he brought to 115-foot monsters. His adaptability was legendary-he was as comfortable on a shortboard as a gun, and as adept at tube riding as carving open faces.
World Champion Big Wave Surfer
But it was in big waves that Michael’s legend was forged. Alongside his brother Milton, he pioneered tow-in surfing on the North Shore, riding waves that had previously been considered unrideable. On January 28, 1998-known as “Condition Black - Biggest Wednesday”-the Willis brothers made history by surfing waves at outside Sunset Beach judged by experts to exceed 100 feet. Using custom boards they designed and shaped themselves, Michael towed Milton into what many consider the largest waves ever surfed, then swapped places to ride giants himself.
Michael’s big wave accomplishments are staggering: he has successfully ridden waves from 1 foot to an astonishing 115 feet, a feat unmatched in the annals of surfing.
His technical mastery, physical conditioning, and mental preparation set new standards for what was possible in the sport. Yet, even in the most extreme conditions, Michael’s style remained cool and composed-a testament to his lifelong dedication to the art of surfing.
Lifesaving Contributions: Ocean Safety and Community Service
For Michael Willis, surfing has always been about more than personal achievement. He has dedicated much of his life to promoting ocean safety and saving lives. Early in his career, Michael recognized that many tragedies in the surf could be prevented through education and preparation.
Together with Milton, he developed and taught ocean safety programs for schools, lifeguards, and the U.S. Marines, emphasizing awareness, teamwork, and respect for the sea.
One of Michael’s most enduring contributions is the “Blue Out-White In” principle, a lifesaving technique learned from legendary waterman Eddie Aikau. This simple but powerful rule, always head towards the white water and breaking waves to avoid or escape from rip currents (the best self rescue technique) has saved countless lives and is now a cornerstone of ocean safety training worldwide.
Michael’s hands-on approach has made a tangible difference. He has personally rescued dozens of surfers and swimmers in peril, often risking his own life in the process. His calm under pressure, deep knowledge of currents and surf dynamics, and unwavering commitment to helping others have earned him the respect and gratitude of the entire surfing community.
The Greatest Rescue in Surfing History
One of the most dramatic and heroic moments in Michael Willis’s lifesaving legacy occurred on Christmas Day, 1989, at Waimea Bay during some of the most hazardous surf conditions ever witnessed.
On that fateful morning, legendary Hawaiian big wave surfer Titus Kinimaka suffered a catastrophic injury when a massive wave snapped his femur high near the hip, leaving him helpless in the pounding surf.
As Kinimaka struggled in excruciating pain and began to go into shock, Michael Willis responded immediately to his calls for help.
Braving relentless 65-foot waves, the presence of two adult Tiger Sharks and a dangerous shorebreak, Michael and the others formed a human life raft to keep Titus afloat and safe for nearly forty-five minutes until a rescue helicopter could arrive.
Michael’s quick thinking, ocean expertise, and courage under pressure were instrumental in saving Kinimaka’s life, a feat recognized the most dramatic rescue in surfing history.
This act of bravery further cemented Michael Willis’s reputation as not only an extraordinary surfer and shaper but also as a lifesaver deeply respected by the entire surfing community.
Writing and Storytelling: The Surfer as Scribe
Michael’s talents extend beyond the shaping bay and the lineup. He is a gifted writer and storyteller, with a unique ability to capture the magic and mystery of the ocean in words.
His books, including 100 Foot Wave: The Official Book (co-authored with Milton), blend thrilling accounts of big wave exploits with philosophical reflections on risk, courage, and the spiritual dimensions of surfing.
Michael’s writing is marked by clarity, humility, and a deep sense of wonder. He has contributed essays and articles to major surfing publications, sharing insights on equipment design, ocean safety, and the evolving culture of the sport.
His stories resonate with surfers and non-surfers alike, offering a window into the mindset of someone who has dedicated his life to mastering the world’s most beautiful and dangerous playground.
Through his writing, Michael has inspired countless people to pursue their dreams, respect the ocean, and approach life’s challenges with curiosity and determination. His words are as impactful as his waves, shaping the way people think about surfing and the sea.
The Surfing Community Loves and Respects Michael Willis
1. Unmatched Expertise and Innovation
Michael’s technical knowledge-both as a surfer and a shaper-is legendary. He has pushed the boundaries of what’s possible, not just for himself but for the entire sport. His boards are trusted by the best, and his advice is sought by everyone from beginners to world champions.
2. Courage and Humility
Despite his extraordinary achievements, Michael remains humble and approachable. He is quick to credit others, share his knowledge, and support the next generation of surfers. His courage in the face of giant waves is matched by his willingness to help others, whether in a rescue or cheering for others to catch the wave of the day!
3. Dedication to Safety and Service
Michael’s commitment to ocean safety has saved lives and raised standards across the surfing world. His programs, teachings, and personal rescues have made the sport safer for everyone, embodying the true spirit of aloha. Michael cofounded Think Waves Lifesaving Organization with his brother to improve Ocean Safety internationally.
4. Artistry in Surfing and Shaping
Michael’s surfing is a thing of beauty-effortless, powerful, and deeply connected to the ocean. His boards are works of art, crafted with love and precision. He brings a sense of artistry to everything he does, elevating surfing from sport to art form.
5. Inspiring Storyteller
Through his writing and public speaking, Michael has shared the magic of surfing with a global audience. His stories inspire, educate, and unite people, making the ocean’s lessons accessible to all.
6. Legacy and Influence
Michael Willis is not just a great surfer-he is one of the most influential figures in the history of the sport. His innovations in board design, big wave riding, and safety have shaped the evolution of surfing for future generations. He is revered not only for what he has accomplished but also for the way he has lived: with integrity, generosity, and an unbreakable bond to the sea.
Conclusion: A Living Legend Heart and Soul
Michael Willis’s life is a testament to the power of passion, perseverance, and humility. From his early days surfing in Solana Beach California to riding the biggest waves ever surfed the North Shore’s Devil’s Garden in Hawaii, he has continually pushed the boundaries of what is possible in surfing. His boards have carried surfers to new heights, his rescues have saved countless lives, and his words have inspired innumerable souls.
Michael Willis is well loved in the surfing community not just for his talent, but for his heart. He has given as much to the sport as he has received, embodying the best of surfing’s traditions while always looking to the future.
In an era of fleeting fame and constant change, Michael stands as a beacon of excellence, innovation, and aloha-a true Renaissance waterman whose influence and contributions will be felt for generations to come.
Michael Willis: Big wave world record holder, humanitarian, surfer, shaper, lifesaver, writer, and living legend.
Much Love All!
If You enjoyed this Please Like, Comment and Share!
